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West Face Route - 5.10c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Double cams to 3 inches, medium nuts, two pitons.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Start on left side of formation in a corner. Climb crack in corner for 15 ft until stepping right onto a ramp. Follow this ramp about 40 ft to end before stepping further right and traversing to two bolt anchor. Old 1/4 inch back up with a finger size cam. My guide book called this pitch 5.9-it is mid to hard 5.10. Climb crack above anchor to two pitons. clip highest and down climb a bit. Traverse right to crack. I found this to be about 5.10/AO--5 inches. I couldn't make the span. Follow this crack past a worthless bolt up and right to another two bolt anchor. Above second anchor, climb initially grotty cracks, which clean nicely, up to a roof. (5.10 A) Traverse under roof to a third anchor--new 3/8 inch. Above third anchor, climb broken rock with OK pro into right corner with two questionable pitons. At second piton, traverse left and then go back right into corner. Follow corner into trees. (5.10 A) Above trees is overhanging hand crack for 101 ft. Follow this to an anchor high on the wall, and the top . 5.10 C

Descent Options:

Rappel route. Last rappel is 115 ft.

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2012-01-15
Views: 362
Route ID: 110451

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2012-01-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars rope solo

Good route, but over grown. Don't let the vegetation turn you around. When I did this, I needed to dig debris from some of the placements. Still, I thought parts of the route were a bit of a sandbag, although the rating I'd give it is the same as Reed's guide. A single70 meter rope will get you down. A sixty may also work if you are willing to do some swinging.

Added: 2012-01-16