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Jamcrack - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.34/5 Average Rating : 4.34 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (76)
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2
Pro to 3"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.39/5
  Rock Quality 4.39/5
  Scenery 3.91/5
  Fun Factor 4.42/5

Description:

This is the classic Jamcrack Route, and is every bit as popular as it is classic.

The climb ascends the beautiful splitter crack which may be found a few hundred feet uphill and to the right of the point where the Yosemite Falls Trail is closest to Sunnyside Bench.

The first pitch is perfect hands and goes at 5.7. A bolted anchor with rap rings may be found 20 feet to the left of the top of the first pitch, and immediately below and left of the second. The second pitch starts as perfect hands and narrows to fingers. This is the crux of the route at 5.9. Pitch two also ends with a bolted anchor and rap rings. In his guidebook, Roper mentions a third pitch which attains Sunnyside Bench, but this variation is not mentioned in any modern guidebook, and so should only be attempted by the adventurous.

From the anchors you can top rope Bummer and Lazy Bum. Only one rope is needed, pitches are 80' or shorter.

Submitted by: thedus on 2005-01-17
Views: 1498
Route ID: 13252

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76 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: csproul on 2014-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars amazing route

Classic. Fun 5.7 pitch followed by a classic 5.9 thin crack, mostly 5.7 and 5.8 with a thin section newer the end that increases the difficulty. Good protection throughout.

Added: 2014-06-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: nkane on 2011-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars mm

good

Added: 2011-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cencalclimber on 2010-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars best 5.7 crack around

loved it. Top is very soft 5.9

Added: 2010-10-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Cory_from_Utah on 2010-09-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars slick and classic

We were lucky that nobody was on this climb. A fun experience and good introduction to climbing in the valley.

Added: 2010-09-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: yosemite26 on 2010-07-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars super fun

This was the first time i had ever tried climbing hand and finger cracks. it was so fun i ran several laps on it before i got tired. wasnt used to that technique. great climb

Added: 2010-09-05

... Read all 76 ascent notes