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Lost Arrow Direct - A2+

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rack: clean, from two bathooks up to OW cams. A few pins and heads, just in case.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty A2+
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5


This Harding classic ascends the outer face of the Lost Arrow Spire. The climb begins just right of some big blocks lying against the face just uphill from the Lost Arrow Chimney. This route was one of the first in the Valley to have bathook holes. There are only a couple of awkward or difficult sections. Mostly it's straightforward and fairly easy. Two large ledges, the First and Second Errors, provide great bivies. Exiting the notch is best accomplished by fixing two ropes before you climb: one rap leads to a large flake ledge, the second to the notch; secure the lower end of the rope at the notch, or it will swing out over the chimney irretrievably. The approach is Bataanesque, and begins behind the Post Office. Walk straight up toward the Yosemite Point Buttress, and ascend sand trails up and left until forced further left toward the Falls. A gulley up the cliff, and some other minor route-finding problems put you right at the base. DO NOT build a campfire at the base, as very sudden, freak high winds kick up right after dark as air heated by the wall rises in a tornado-like vortex.

Submitted by: apollodorus on 2002-03-22
Last Modified: 2012-02-06
Views: 1631
Route ID: 13741

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3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty A2+
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: USnavy on 2011-07-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Okay route

The approach is a real bitch, it says 1-2 hours in the guidebook but it gains 1,600 feet in elevation and follows a climbers trail which is a bit spotty at times. In other words, its very easy to get off the trail and this 1-2 hour approach can easily turn into an eight hour approach.

The guidebook says you need a few tricams for a pod off the second ledge, you dont. You can easily skip the pod by top stepping off a solid rivet (and I am not that tall).

The rock quality around the middle 2/3rds section deteriorates quite a bit and thus I only give it 3/5. Others have recommended this as a first wall, I wouldent do it as a first wall, it has some fairly moderate C2 in some sections and if you blew it things could get nasty. South Face of W. Column is a better first wall.

Added: 2011-07-09

Onsight Onsight ascent by: apollodorus on 2002-03-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This was my first wall climb, in the Fall of 1983. If you have a little experience with aid climbing, and can handle the fairly long bathook pitch off the Second Error ledge, this would be a good first wall. The approach probably makes it far less crowded than the South Face of W.C. or the Leaning Tower.

Witnessed by: Steve Gerberding
Added: 2002-03-16

Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: guidebook on 2001-08-31 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I loved it, at the last section, it maybe gone by now, was a 10 foot piece of webbing hanging down. After reefing on it for 7 feet you get to see what it is attached to, a golf ball size hole with a broken slider wedged sidewise single piano wire knotted. I watched the surprised look on everyone faces, they instantly took their weight off the webbing. The Tyrolienne traverse was the best airy felling I have ever had. I was thinking please no earthquake in California today.

Witnessed by: Bill, Alie, Ralph Micheal
Added: 2001-08-31