Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Alan Bartlett and James Wilson
Sparse bolts protect the some of the face climbing with huge runouts, but you do need some small to medium cams and a set of wireds to protect the occasional cracks and flakes that will accept pro. All anchors, save for the summmit, are bolted. The ASCA h
This route lies to the left of the Great Pumpkin. It is a quasi "old school" route designed for the leader who has their lid screwed on pretty tight. There are several lengthy runouts, some on thin and polished slab, and a spot of routefinding thrown in for good measure. Extra scary considering you might be 20 feet above your last clip making down climbing a choice of last resort. The knobs are abundant in some areas and slick and thin in other. There's a few patches of slick polish with micro edges on the few exfoliated spots. It is said this route is a better version of the Great Pumpkin for those who enjoy the rush of long runouts, unprotected traverses, and mantling.
Pitch #1: Motor up the easy corner. There is a bolt at the top of the corner before you start traversing right and into a few cruxy moves. Watch out for rope drag. 3 bolts total on the pitch, then a 4 bolt (two that are good) belay.
Pitch #2: Undercling up an left out of the station on some very loose plates. Clip the bolt and begin to move right and up and across the polish to a second bolt. The route forks left to a 10b variation. Don't clip this bolt. Be sure to head right. You can place some small gear into a flake after you move right and climb up a bit. Eventually get to the right facing corner where you can place a nut or some cams. Belay is at the top of this corner. 3 bolts on the pitch, then a 2 bolt belay.
Pitch #3: Run it out straight up to a bolt and then continue movning upward and slightly right. If you are lucky you will find a small flake that takes 3/4" to 1" cams. This is a heady pitch that requires route finding. Continue straight up from this flake until you either hit a rusted 1/4" bolt or the anchor. 1 good bolt, and 1 bad hidden bolt on the pitch, then a 2 bolt belay.
Pitch #4: Go up toward the big roof and maybe plug in a 1.5" cam as you turn the corner. Exit the roofs on the right via a 5.4 ramp and look for a fixed pin about half way out. Run the rope all the way back onto the slab to belay. Overlaps up there will take small to medium cams for an anchor. No bolts, set an anchor on top.
Continue up and left across the top of the dome until you can descend down endless slabs to the forest. Bring descent shoes.
Submitted by: sierragal93546 on 2012-06-04
Route ID: 111580
This route was rated 5.9R but was much harder due to the runouts and many thin areas. My partner who is red pointing 12a-b in the Owens River Gorge found it heady and a challenge. Took us 6 hours from start to end to do 4 pitches due to the difficult route finding and caution on run outs. Mountain Project said the runouts are on easy ground but I would rate some of the spots at 5.10b.