Routes : North America : United States : California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Southeast Face: El Capitan : The Reticent Wall
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The Reticent Wall - A5 popular
Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 10
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Extra beaks, LAs and KBs, lots of hooks, more heads than Supertopo suggests, 60m ropes(!)
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Description:
Here is a route that contains not one but two Real Live Death Pitches! This Steve Gerberding and Scott Stowe masterpiece has some of the reachiest rivets on the Captain, and will have you struggling in your topsteps just to clip 'em. Lay Lady Ledge, from which The Reticent Wall starts, is a brilliant and roomy bivi, big enough even to unrope! Above this you will follow six pitches of thin and sustained climbing to reach Wino Tower, where you can still find shards of glass from Warren Harding's wine bottles. This is a great place to hang out while you get somebody else to lead the pitch above. When you finally reach the plush sidewalk-width bivi below the New Wave A5 pitch, take a good look at the ledge. If you goof the crux, this will be the last thing you see before you die as you bounce off the ledge while flying by en route to a three hundred and fifty foot fall where you rip the whole pitch!
Submitted by: passthepitonspete on 2006-03-26
Views: 1288
Route ID: 5207
Most Recent Photo
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6 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 6 ascent notes
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| Difficulty | 5.7 A4+ |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
:)
Did 4-th solo ascent and 10 overall June 1999
Added: 2010-02-26
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| Safety Rating | X |
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| Fun Factor |  |
Rope recommendations
I'd recommend a 70 meter rope, as a 60 will get you to some stations with stretch. Also, take as many small, medium, and large beaks and small arrows as you can carry. A 200 foot nailing pitch takes a ton of gear, and there are some 200 foot cracks that never get wider than a #2 lost arrow.
Also, At 5'4", I found that the rivits were still 12-18 inches away when I was in my top steps. There are probably 600 feet of rivits on this route, so its a huge time-consumer if you don't have a tall partner or a dialed system for dealing with this.
-Kate.
Also, At 5'4", I found that the rivits were still 12-18 inches away when I was in my top steps. There are probably 600 feet of rivits on this route, so its a huge time-consumer if you don't have a tall partner or a dialed system for dealing with this.
-Kate.
Added: 2007-10-19
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2004-08-29
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Ascent Note
Every pitch take a long day of work. Technical climbing for tall people. Reachy rivet, hook and head placements is very
interesting. I think that pitch 4,8,11 and 13 are the crux.
Tom McMillan, my mate on this ascent, have climbed the 8th pitch in the dark so I think this is a good idea for hide a dangerous situation. We placed more than 60 heads and we found a route very natural without drilled hooks or chiseled heads. Congratulations to Gerberding..
interesting. I think that pitch 4,8,11 and 13 are the crux.
Tom McMillan, my mate on this ascent, have climbed the 8th pitch in the dark so I think this is a good idea for hide a dangerous situation. We placed more than 60 heads and we found a route very natural without drilled hooks or chiseled heads. Congratulations to Gerberding..
Added: 2000-06-06
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Ascent Note
<br><br><b>Pretty Darn Hard!</b><br>
<br>I have started a <b>photo essay,</b> which is also <b>Dr. Piton's Statement of Identity and Credibility where he provides a reference.</b><br>
<br>You can click here to <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=1918"><b>begin the photo essay of Reticent Wall.</b></a><br>
<br>I have started a <b>photo essay,</b> which is also <b>Dr. Piton's Statement of Identity and Credibility where he provides a reference.</b><br>
<br>You can click here to <a href="http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=1918"><b>begin the photo essay of Reticent Wall.</b></a><br>
Witnessed by: Sean Easton and Chris Geisler
Added: 1998-10-01
Added: 1998-10-01
