Routes : North America : United States : California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Southwest Face: El Capitan : The Nose
PreviousThe Nose - A1 popular
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Warren Harding and friends/suckers
Aid
G
31
Traditional gear. No hammer, except to clean. Leeper cam hooks useful.
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Description:
This is the all time classic El Cap route, and possibly the most famous rock climb in the world. It's also the first El Cap route, finally succumbing to Warren Harding in November, 1958 after 45 days of climbing over 18 months. The Nose goes straight up the proud south-facing prow of El Cap, and is without doubt the most sought-after big wall climb in the world. Lynn Hill has free climbed the route at 5.13b in under 24 hours, and in 2005 Tommy Caldwell free climbed both the Nose and Freerider in under 24 hours, falling only 4 times. The next closest person was Scott Burke, with a tenacity that put even the first ascensionist, Warren Harding, to shame, Scott Burke worked for approximately 200 days to finally free climb the route, but he climbed the then-wet "Great Roof" pitch on toprope. Along with the West Face and Salathe Wall, the Nose is an El Cap route where you won't need your portaledge. There are bivis all along the route, with El Cap Towers being the primo campsite. You'd best keep your eye on your rear-view mirror when climbing here - over a short period in the fall of 2001, the speed record was broken three times. The previous record time stood at 2:48:30 by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine in 2002. The current record, set on October 8th 2007, stands at 2:45:45 which was set by Alexander and Thomas Huber.
Submitted by: jcpace on 2008-03-26
Views: 2436
Route ID: 4506
Most Recent Photos (See all 40 photos)
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54 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 54 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 A1 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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Red Point ascent by:
A Must Do
Endless cracks, stellar exposure, many historical formations.....how could anyone not get on it.
Make sure you put in some time swinging a little before you hit the KS for the first time.
Done it a few times and it is still a route that I look forward to doing every Spring.
Make sure you put in some time swinging a little before you hit the KS for the first time.
Done it a few times and it is still a route that I look forward to doing every Spring.
Added: 2009-10-11
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Incredible journey!
Beautiful line up an amazing hunk 'o rock. Even better that the only other team on the route was 2 days ahead of us - what luck! 3 days and a few hours (3 nights) on the route with no pre-hauling.
The climb turned out way harder than I expected - quite a few sandbagged pitches! Bring more water than you might expect. Temps in 80s and sunny = 1 gallon per person per day. Thanks to whomever left 2 gallons on El Cap Tower!
My wife did all the hard aid pitches = badass. She thought the Changing Corners was by far the hardest. Certainly seemed that way as most of her gear on that pitch popped out just from jugging the rope.
The climb turned out way harder than I expected - quite a few sandbagged pitches! Bring more water than you might expect. Temps in 80s and sunny = 1 gallon per person per day. Thanks to whomever left 2 gallons on El Cap Tower!
My wife did all the hard aid pitches = badass. She thought the Changing Corners was by far the hardest. Certainly seemed that way as most of her gear on that pitch popped out just from jugging the rope.
Added: 2009-09-15
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.9 A1 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
The Nose
With Mike over 4 days
Added: 2009-06-30
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
First El Cap Wall
Amazing five days with a wonderful partner. Thanks, Joy!
Added: 2009-03-31
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | A1 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
The Nose
Spectacular! Beat up after four long days but over joyed to complete this route. The crowds were insane and we got lucky in the line up as a party of four bailed from Dolt. Hans and Yuji passed us twice!
Added: 2008-10-10
