Routes : North America : United States : California : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : Southwest Face: El Capitan : The Nose
The Nose - A2 popular
Average Rating : 4.93 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 80
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (61)
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Warren Harding and friends/suckers
Aid
PG13
31
Traditional gear. No hammer, except to clean. Leeper cam hooks useful.
31000
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Description:
This is the all time classic El Cap route, and possibly the most famous rock climb in the world. It's also the first El Cap route, finally succumbing to Warren Harding in November, 1958 after 45 days of climbing over 18 months. The Nose goes straight up the proud south-facing prow of El Cap, and is without doubt the most sought-after big wall climb in the world. Lynn Hill has free climbed the route at 5.13b in under 24 hours, and in 2005 Tommy Caldwell free climbed both the Nose and Freerider in under 24 hours, falling only 4 times. The next closest person was Scott Burke, with a tenacity that put even the first ascensionist, Warren Harding, to shame, Scott Burke worked for approximately 200 days to finally free climb the route, but he climbed the then-wet "Great Roof" pitch on toprope. Along with the West Face and Salathe Wall, the Nose is an El Cap route where you won't need your portaledge. There are bivis all along the route, with El Cap Towers being the primo campsite. You'd best keep your eye on your rear-view mirror when climbing here - over a short period in the fall of 2001, the speed record was broken three times. The previous record time stood at 2:48:30 by Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine in 2002. The current record, set on October 8th 2007, stands at 2:45:45 which was set by Alexander and Thomas Huber. And then Hirayama and Florine beat that record again. Current best is 2:23:46 (Florine and Honnold in 2012).
Submitted by: jcpace on 2008-03-26
Last Modified: 2013-10-03
Views: 8106
Route ID: 4506
Most Recent Photos (See all 40 photos)
61 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 61 ascent notes
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Difficulty | 5.10b A2 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Hang Dog ascent by: captaincrimp on 2011-06-10
(View Climbing Log)
Classic
big wall style. fix to syckle. sleep on dolt. sleep at camp IV. sleep at camp VI. Summit. Sleep on top next to fire.
Amazing adventure and great life experience.
Amazing adventure and great life experience.
Added: 2014-03-05
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Difficulty | 5.10a A1 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: coryberkebile on 2013-04-20
(View Climbing Log)
Great Route
A red and yellow Black Diamond C3 makes the great roof cruiser. Really fun route, had the route to mostly to ourselves.
Added: 2013-11-01
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Difficulty | 5.11b A2 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Hang Dog ascent by: lithophiliac on 2011-06-16
(View Climbing Log)
The most classic of all time!!
Waited 22 years to finally do this route, but the wait was so totally worth it. A life changing experience for sure! I had a magical time with an amazing partner. Even in my wildest dreams, I could not have dreamed up a more perfect ascent!
Added: 2011-07-21
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Difficulty | 5.11c A1 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Hang Dog ascent by: stevecurtis on 1997-06-21
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The best
Did this in 1995, and then an 18 hour ascent in 1997. If you can save it, climbing above the corners pitch is super.
Added: 2011-02-02
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Difficulty | A2 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Onsight ascent by: USnavy on 2010-06-19
(View Climbing Log)
One of the best lines in the world!
First time on El Cap, 2.5 days on the wall. The decent sucked with a full rack and two 70m ropes. The line is harder then C1. The Great Roof seemed like C1+ and the Changing Corners and start of the pitch right after Camp VI (Glowering Spot?) seemed like C2. Overall and amazing line, well worth the work.
Added: 2010-06-19