Climbs up a beautiful section of the apron. A good 40 ft and a reachy move brings you to the first bolt. From there the runnouts seem all of a sudden reasonable. Beautiful and graceful movement past several more bolts, a funky left facing flake then a glass smooth short traverse to the anchors. Pitch two starts up more polish and features several cruxy sections and finally a perplexing series of moves to the anchors. All the bolts are new and bomber courtesy of the ASCA.
Rappel from BOMBER ring anchors.
Submitted by: salamanizer on 2009-10-08
Route ID: 101973
Back in 1983 I took my longest leader fall, a 30-footer, while trying to clip the 5th bolt. It was 6" above my outstretched fingers while I stood on a tiny but comfortable ledge beneath--I fell while trying to reach it. According to notes in my climbing journal, the 40' runout to the first bolt was protected somewhere by a fixed pin.
The runout to the first bolt was wild. Mostly easy climbing accept for one reachy move just before the bolt. The rest was your typical thought provokeing pucker factor climbing on the apron. Really fun and not a death route. No huge deadly runouts but certainly places where you wouldn't want to loose your focus. Really good movement and climbing.