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Hall of Mirrors - 5.12c popular

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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1-inch to 2-inch plus many biners and quick draws.
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Starting just left of Goodrich Pinnacle (lft side), Hall of Mirrors follows a pure slab up a distinct water streak for 16 pitches from the base of Glacier Point Apron to the railing at Glacier Point via the U-shaped bowl. The first two pitches of the route are known as "Misty Beethoven," which was originally rated 5.10d R by its first ascentist, Mark Wilford. In May 1992 Johnny Woodward established a "Springtime Dry Variation" to the left of Pitches 4, 5 and 6 that avoids the most heinous runouts on the lower 8 pitches. The following history (taken from Clint Cummins' Yosemite Big Wall Web site) provides a fairly accurate historical synopsis: Hall of Mirrors - 5.12c *** (16p: 7 5.11, 5 5.12) Free Ascents FA - Chris Cantwell, Scott Burke, 9/80 added the final pitches 13-16 5 days on continuous ascent a couple of short sections of p13 were toproped, instead of led. In these sections, the bolts were placed as aid ladders, then the leader lowered to free the moves, but left the rope clipped in from the aid high point. 2nd FA - Jonny Woodward, John Bercaw, 10/92 1 day on continuous ascent Preparation (10/92): 2 days, mostly for bolt replacement Preparation (5/92): 4 days, including establishing the "Springtime Dry Variation", Jonny Woodward and Darrell Hensel. Climbing #141, AAJ '82 Early pitches freed p9-12, started p13 - 5.12c - Chris Cantwell, Scott Cole, 1979 p3-8.5 - 5.12b - Dave Austin, Chris Cantwell, Bruce Morris, 1978 p1-2 - 5.11a - Mark Wilford, 1975 Since Johnny Woodward's repeat, there have been no others.

Submitted by: morcomm on 2005-03-29
Views: 2577
Route ID: 65078

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