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Blazing Buckets - 5.9

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(5.9+ / R / 2 bolts, gear .5in to 4in) Climb the knobby headwall above the Regular Route. The 2nd pitch of the Regular Route ends at a large ledge, and a choice of “finishing” pitches to summit Reed’s Pinnacle. Blazing Buckets is the least popular of these choices, due to the inherent and obvious nasty ledge fall potential that looms below. Locate, and align with the first bolt, and crank to it… the moves are tricky enough to inspire a little vacillating exploration, but coming up from directly below the bolt is probably the way to go? An upward, left-tending traverse leads to the off-width chimney of the Direct. Near the mid-point is a sideways “pucker” move that takes mental fortitude, and hopefully a high-percentage assessment, or consider retreat. The run outs are complimented with periodic large, if not blazing buckets which help in luring one on. Once past the scary stuff comes the physical grunting stuff that the Direct Finish is famous for. Climbers opting for this variation will certainly earn the summit. Seconding this pitch is akin to leading it, as the traversing nature will award the same falling consequences to the second as the leader. Note: the fixed gear is great need of an upgrade. (FA: John Middendorf / 1986)

Submitted by: jimmyray on 2006-08-16
Views: 791
Route ID: 78983

1 Ascent Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: jimmyray on 2006-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Partner: Terry Andrews

Added: 2006-08-16