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Power Failure - 5.11a

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Rock (Trad)
PG13
5
nuts and cams to 5 inches
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
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  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Start several hundred yards left of the Odyssey, and at a lower elevation. The Crux, a fist flare/roof affair is plainly visible. The start is just left of a large downward pointing tooth.. First pitch is very nice 5.9 crack to a tree 80 ft.. Second pitch is the crux starting as an awkward chimney layback, to OW to fist roof. Past this roof is more fist and 5.10 OW--100 ft. We found this pitch considerably harder than the Reed guide rating of 11 A. The pitch is clean and super. Third pitch is hummock hiking at 5.8 to a dead Oak. We combined the next pitch, but this makes the grade 5.10 R Fourth pitch is a short crack, to a very small roof with a groove and piton above. Follow a thin discontinuous 5.10+ crack (small gear plus one #1 camalot) to a tree with two 30 year old slings, and one new one. The final pitch is said to be 5.8 hand crack--we bailed at the fourth pitch.

Descent Options:

Rappel route. There is an old anchor above the first pitch in need of an upgrade.

Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2013-09-28
Views: 110
Route ID: 114463