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Lost Arrow Chimney - 5.10a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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We used max size #3 Camalot. Others suggested Large cams and Big Bros. (If you bring it you'll use
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


On pitch 6 where Falcon 1998 guide shows face moves, right, past 2 bolts, didn't find this. Fixed pro is in poor condition. Excellent grunt climb

Submitted by: johnr9q on 2006-06-09
Views: 1759
Route ID: 77328

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: salamanizer on 2008-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Gnarly

You can link pitches 1 & 2, 3 & 4, and 5 & 6, The pitch in the falcon guide that shows traversing out on the face past two bolts (pitch 6) they're not there, nore are they needed. If you have trouble or are scared before pitch 8, bail, cuz you're gonna die...

Pitch 8 is a rotten chimney with no possibility for pro of any sort. It's about two feet wide and is hell on your knees. Two leepers (side by side) are the only pro about half way up. Good stuff.
Pitch 9 is a typical sandbag .10 yosemite squeeze chimney. You should be able to handle any Valley .10 chimney before you jump on this one.

We brought a single set of cams from .4in to 3in and a set of nuts. Most of the anchors and pro take small cams, not large ones. It's really not worth dragging up any cams bigger than 3in.

Really fun route though.

Added: 2008-05-13