On the right side of the south face...Start on top of a flake just above the river next to the bridge and pass the two bolts(crux)and continue up the 5.8 crack to a ledge called the BAR. Belay here. Then climb the beautiful crack system above to a roof, pull it, and climb the hard finger crack to the ledge. Easy chimney from there to the top.
this route is also commonly used for practicing aid - though, the free climbers of the area much appreciate the gumbie aiders to share the route on busy days. if done right, this route can also be C1.
Submitted by: amber_chk on 2003-12-21
Route ID: 11118
Man oh man, I got spanked on this route. The lower crux (on the bolts) felt very hard to me. Botched getting out of the roof and took a 30 foot winger. Pretty exciting. Feel 3 or 4 times. Linked both pitches.
i was with my friend matt biddle who can't climb but loves to belay. lucky i had a 60 meter rope. made it to the bar, then backcleaned a little, then made it to the top. got a good rest with a knee slot before hitting the last few moves up a steep finger crack.