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Shady Deal - 5.11c

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Dan Hare and Stella Adams, July 2002
Rock (Sport)
G
1
7 plus anchors
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

This is the bolted route between Father Figure and Splitting Hares described in Greg Hand's July 10, 2003 comment on Centennial. The 11c grade is an approximation; it may be easier.... Climb to the first bolt on Father Figure, then diagonal right past another bolt into a large right-facing corner. The difficulties begin at the third bolt where the corner narrows and steepens. Stem precariously up past the fourth and fifth bolts to a small roof. Clip the bolt over the roof and crank it on mediocre hands (crux). Make another dicey move to pull into balance below the final slab. After clipping the last bolt, one or two moves in a finger crack lead to the anchors. Lower 60'. Although the climbing from the third bolt to the anchors is sustained, the bolts are only 3'-5' apart.

Submitted by: clohse on 2009-08-24
Views: 522
Route ID: 101434

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: glahhg on 2013-08-29 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars :)

Bolts every 18 inches...

Added: 2013-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fgonz007 on 2012-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Shady

Fun and interesting. As stated below, pure thuggery was used.

Added: 2012-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: elizaclimb on 2010-11-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Shady Deal

followed Andy without any car crashes

Added: 2010-11-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: elizaclimb on 2010-07-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Shady Deal

while Bill was belaying Adam on this a car came out of control down the canyon and crashed into Bill's car and totaled it. Luckily the driver crawled out of her flipped vehicle with just a little blood. What a crazy day. The climb was pretty cool, thought it was a bit easier than the grade but i was just following

Added: 2010-10-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clohse on 2009-08-24 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Way to Go, Knee

This felt pretty good to do. It's a fun route for sure. Technical and interesting. Tricky, but the crux can definitely be done with pure thuggery if you're interested in hanging on some crimps. Feet are really important for the less forearm-inclined amongst us.

Added: 2009-08-24