Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Bruno Haché and Ron Olsen, 6/24/07
7 bolts + 2 double ring anchors
Pitch one of a two-pitch sport climb.
From Mountain Project:
P1: Climb up left past a slabby corner and a short headwall, and continue up left past a V-corner onto a slab. Climb up to a steep headwall at the fifth bolt, where the real fun begins. Move up right on very thin holds (crux) and clip a bolt on the overhanging wall to the right. Work up to a key undercling, then crank up to the awesome Gunks-like quartzite jugs over the roof. Great moves! Turn the roof and continue up a slab to the first belay. This anchor is just left of the first-pitch anchor on Total Eclipse. (5.10d, 65', 7 bolts).
Submitted by: kvochatzer on 2009-08-04
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Route ID: 101186
The line was contrived to go over a roof sideways from the sloping base. I was following the natural line up the slope at the base, along with many other chalked up hands before me, when I realized that the next bolt in view was the next climb over and having read a brief description from Mountain Project realized that the bolters must have wanted to do something really "cool" and not follow the natural line. I downclimbed and then hung, looked it over, then literally looked over the roof with the bolt half way up and saw the contrived bolt line that continued. So with this now being clear that the climb was contrived to do the "cool" move over, I figured out the side/pull "undercling" that was required. I'm not saying that the move wasn't fun, it just wasn't the natural route to follow - which is my major beef with this crag - poor route development, sloping belays and rotten rock still hanging all over the routes. I redpointed it with my head lamp - I wasn't about to leave Boulder with a bad tasting hangdog on this, my last day of 5 weeks of fun climbing. Oh, since I ought to say one good thing... the crag has a nice view of Boulder Falls since they had the trail to it shut down the whole Summer.