From Mountain Project:
Start in the same place as for Tag Team, at a 2-bolt belay anchor on a ledge just right of a big pine tree.
P1. Angle right up a slab, then move left into a slot. Step left onto another slab, and move up to a roof. Turn the roof on the right, and climb a steep face to the anchor. 5.9, 60', 8 bolts.
P2. Step up right and climb a short headwall, and continue up a slab past a bulge. Crank right onto another slab. Make some thin moves up the slab (crux), and continue up to a steep headwall. Do not stop at the chained anchor of Tag Team left of the 9th bolt. Instead, angle up right onto the headwall and continue for 3 more bolts to the anchor just below the tree at the top. 5.10a, 95', 12 bolts.
Descent: Two rappels, 95' and 60', back to the start.
Submitted by: kvochatzer on 2009-08-04
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Route ID: 101187
The route's sort of a mess. If I had a problem it's that the crux slab is covered in lichen... and it's unlikely to get clean because this route is never gonna see a ton of traffic. Good news is there won't be a lot of people to drop the detached blocks on.
I did not enjoy this climb at all. I found that the line was contrived and awkward. There are two large semi-detached flakes out to the right of the P1 anchors. When these come off, and they will be cause they almost have to be used, it will likely take out anyone at the base of the climb or hiking up to this crag from below. Let's hope that I'm wrong. IMO, these ought to have been trundled 2 years ago when the route was developed. There was more rotten rock left on other parts of the route. The P2 anchors were too low for even my short arse at 5'8" to use anything but my shortest draws and to lean way back on the otherwise level platform to belay my partner. I can only imagine what a 6 foot + climber would do. The anchors very easily could have been placed 1-1.5 feet higher into the same solid rock and allowed all sizes longer reaches from belay device to draws on anchors.
IMO, poorly thought out and developed climb. My experience was unenjoyable on it - no offense intended personally to the developers. P2