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Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : Boulder Area : Eldorado Canyon : The Bastille : Bastille Crack with 4th pitch (5.9ish) Variation

Bastille Crack with 4th pitch (5.9ish) Variation - 5.9

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Not sure, I couldn't find it in the book
Rock (Trad)
G
1
During this pitch, I used all small C3 sizes 00-1 and a small nut around a #4. There were probably other options.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

So we linked the 1st and 2nd pitch. 3rd was short but interesting. The 4th just looked boring at 5.5 dihedral. It looked like basically a ladder. I went off route and found GREAT climbing. It isnt in Levin's book. My partner and I agreed that it was the most fun part of the climb. I will try to describe it: After traversing across the gulley, I climbed about 10 ft until I found a stuck piton. There was a fin to my right and an interesting incomplete dihedral above and slightly to the right. The 5.5 route goes left. They run vertically about 10-15 feet apart. As for protection, I used C3 sizes 00-1 and used a small nut around a #4. I was always about to get worried about protection until the next move revealed some options. I would rate it around 5.9 for the leader, however I may be biased because I wasn't sure if there would be protection above, and I could have missed some holds. My followers agreed with the rating. Either way, it was interesting and the shortest follower at 5'6" could reach everything. I ended up trending right and some broken dihedral rock until moving onto a big hands size crack with a wierd but easy mantle move confirmed the end of the pitch and linked back up with the belay spot before the last chimney/dihedral (which was almost literally steps). We chose the 5.8 dihedral which required an OW move if you stick strictly in the dihedral. Please post if you have done this variation. Like I said, we all thought it was highly recommended as an alternative if you are at that climbing level. It keeps all the pitches interesting and fun. PM me if you are interested or have any questions.

Submitted by: dindolino32 on 2010-09-04
Last Modified: 2010-09-23
Views: 623
Route ID: 106456

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dindolino32 on 2010-08-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome variation to keep things interesting until the top

Good fun and kept me awake.

Added: 2010-09-04