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The West Buttress - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (24)
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Rock
General trad gear with some big stuff for a chimney.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.75/5
  Scenery 4.80/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Another classic route that climbs to the top of the Bastille in 5 pitches. Long cruise climb with 5.9 cruxes on the first and second pitches make this a good outing.

Submitted by: compclimber on 2001-10-11
Views: 934
Route ID: 4948

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24 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: alexoverhere on 2012-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars p1 a bit scary

The first pitch is a bit scary and the climbing is a bit harder than 5.9. The remainder of the climb was great. I especially enjoyed the offwidth / chimney.

Added: 2012-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2012-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Route

A little sandbagged. Very sustained in a techy kind of way. Start is a little sketchy and the crux is a little hard in comparison to other 5.9's and even some 5.10's in the canyon (Positively Fourth Street, Handcracker, Five Ten Crack, etc). It's protected enough though and if you're an experienced Eldo climber it shouldn't seem too sandbagged. Probably not good for the 5.9 climber.

Added: 2012-05-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: plantmandan on 2011-06-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars sweet

Another amazing route on the bastille. We did the 10a variation. Chimney is interesting, and the exit roof near the top is stellar.

Added: 2011-06-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Second Second ascent by: acherry on 2010-07-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars very nice

First crux is definitely interesting if you're under 5'4". I can not believe I didn't fall there!

Added: 2010-07-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cracklover on 2010-07-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Super, and worth waiting for

A year and a month ago, I backed off this climb because I didn't like the unprotected traverse at the beginning. Today, I felt absolutely solid. Yay!

Added: 2010-07-24

... Read all 24 ascent notes