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West Chimney - 5.7

Average Rating = 3.60/5 Average Rating : 3.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Standard Rack with some extra wide gear if you are climbing near your limit.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Pitch 1-This route begins by climbing the first 50 feet of Blind Faith. When the fist crack starts to steepen angle out right following obvious holds, but beware of loose rock. Belay on a good sized, but not huge ledge. Pitch 2-Climb the right facing dihedral until it is possible to traverse right (look for a fixed pin) back to Blind Faith. Continue up the chimney to the summit.

Submitted by: wigglestick on 2002-05-13
Views: 898
Route ID: 17127

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: cracklover on 2010-07-24 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice route...

... aside from the choss in middle of P1, and the bird poo on P2.

Added: 2010-07-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: acherry on 2010-07-24 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars West Side in the levin book

The description on this site says "when the crack starts to steepen, go right" Not true. You go left, around the 10a crack to the base of the wide crack. This site also says "follow a dihedral" for the beginning of the second pitch. Its not a dihedral. Its a 6in crack-dihedral. Just FYI. I only got a very very tiny nut behind a flake on the slab out right. I do not know if a #6 C4 will fit in the crack.
Only giving it 3 stars because of the choss on the first pitch.
Did the 5.8 alternate finish.

Added: 2010-07-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jtjhnsn on 2008-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars west chimney on the bastille

very versatile route. Cracks, slab, chimney, roofs...everything. Stupid birds attacked me and felt like I was gonna die. Don't piss off the birds! Which, apparently just sitting there doing nothing is enough for them to attack. When you get to the crux move, where to fixed bolt is, traverse using your hands. Don't try to walk, just won't happen.

Added: 2008-06-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: anykineclimb on 2007-06-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars quickie

Another great day in Eldo. Cindy Lou with the lead of the 2nd pitch! NICE!!

Added: 2007-06-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: cindylou on 2005-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

My first encounter with a route on Bastille. Excellent 7. Not too hard, and not too soft. Tim buried his leg in the chimney right at the beginning of the 2nd pitch. His inner thigh looks like a really big and really bad case of road rash. Great day.

Witnessed by: timstich, pheenix
Added: 2005-07-10

... Read all 8 ascent notes