Pitch 1-This route begins by climbing the first 50 feet of Blind Faith. When the fist crack starts to steepen angle out right following obvious holds, but beware of loose rock. Belay on a good sized, but not huge ledge. Pitch 2-Climb the right facing dihedral until it is possible to traverse right (look for a fixed pin) back to Blind Faith. Continue up the chimney to the summit.
Submitted by: wigglestick on 2002-05-13
Route ID: 17127
The description on this site says "when the crack starts to steepen, go right" Not true. You go left, around the 10a crack to the base of the wide crack. This site also says "follow a dihedral" for the beginning of the second pitch. Its not a dihedral. Its a 6in crack-dihedral. Just FYI. I only got a very very tiny nut behind a flake on the slab out right. I do not know if a #6 C4 will fit in the crack. Only giving it 3 stars because of the choss on the first pitch. Did the 5.8 alternate finish.
very versatile route. Cracks, slab, chimney, roofs...everything. Stupid birds attacked me and felt like I was gonna die. Don't piss off the birds! Which, apparently just sitting there doing nothing is enough for them to attack. When you get to the crux move, where to fixed bolt is, traverse using your hands. Don't try to walk, just won't happen.
My first encounter with a route on Bastille. Excellent 7. Not too hard, and not too soft. Tim buried his leg in the chimney right at the beginning of the 2nd pitch. His inner thigh looks like a really big and really bad case of road rash. Great day.