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Handcracker Direct - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Standard Eldo trad rack.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

4-5 Pitches. Pitch 1 ascends a blocky, stepped rib that has three large notches, or steps, in it. Move up right and commit to the steep crack. (5.8) Pitch 2 continues up the obvious crack on the left. (5.9) At the large ledge with a tree, belay the leader up the big flake on the left. Near the top, get on the left face of the ramp and top out at another large ledge (5.7) Pitch 4 is the 10a crux, though it seems more like 5.9+. Solid flakes and jams get you 3/4 way up and then the climb gets stiff and sustained. Place med cams before powering up to the left. A superb pitch!

Submitted by: timstich on 2004-08-26
Views: 673
Route ID: 58560

12 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: acherry on 2013-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars I did P3 and 5.

P1 was reachy.

Added: 2013-06-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cracklover on 2013-06-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Super fun

I combined p1 and p2. Climbed on double ropes. Loved it.

Added: 2013-06-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2012-04-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good crack climbing

Geeky the first pitch was the hardest. Could of been the really cold wind. The crux pitch was actually pretty easy. Really fun climbing. If you're not comfortable on 5.8 you should bring a couple #4's for the offwidth flake.

Added: 2012-04-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1994-10-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Rare eldo crack

This is one of the few places in Eldo you can do some moderate jamming.

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: schveety on 2006-03-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Awesome route. Did it in 3 pitches. First pitch seemed pretty pumpy in one section, felt like I was in the gym for a few seconds. Second pitch has hard moves (5.9) off the belay ledge, but I personally thought it was easier than 5.9, than it eases up to easy hand jams and some weird offwidth/ chimney climbing (pretty exposed). The 5.10a pitch wasn't bad at all. I found the actual crux move to be easy compared to the big hands section directly below it.

Added: 2006-03-05

... Read all 12 ascent notes