According to the Rossiter guide, this route is about 100ft. south of the north arete route. We simply picked out a rock that looked sufficient to belay P1 from and went for that. P1 is runout with no pro. From P1 belay, go straight up towards the overhanging roof on the north arete, but instead veer left up a gulley system onto a huge ledge with a tree. No anchor is needed here. Belay the second up and head straight up to another tree. Some gear is available here. Make an anchor at a young juniper tree and procede up a crack system on the left to a perch where you can build a nice gear anchor. The summit is perhaps 50ft. from here if you would rather just run to it. Rappel off the backside from the two bolt anchor with multi-colored slings. Leave the gold gate carabiner so you can rap from it and the quicklink. The biner is my contribution to your and my safe rappel.
Submitted by: timstich on 2004-04-17
Route ID: 51324
This was one of the first routes I ever did. A couple feet from the top, a large storm cut loose with rain and lightning. We said screw belaying, unroped, and ran up to the top so we could get the hell out of there.