This was the first route up The Maiden in 1944, quite a feat for it's time. At the upper (west)end of the spire is a short face, climb it and then scramble down to a ledge. Work across the ridge to the Crow's Nest (a small platform where the West Face rises 120 feet OVER you. Work down the north face to a ledge and then up to a tree (scary). Follow the crack from the tree to a bolt, then either climb down to an inside corner and then up to a ledge, or up to a bolt and then down the top of a flake to the ledge. From here you climb up behind a large block to a tree, and then scramble up the East Ridge to the summit and an incredible view of Boulder. Rappell to the Crow's Nest from the fixed cables around a block on top, watch your aim and it is at least 120 feet down, completely free of the rock. *begin edit by mbg* The summit rap anchor now consists of two good bolts with a chain and a ring. Also, most guidebooks/topos show each rap to be 120' long but a 60m cord (make sure it really is 60m 1st!) will barely get you down both with stretch. If you're crazy enough to attempt the Maiden on a windy day don't try the one rope trick; getting blown around with only a stub of rope below your breaking device would be terrifying. Lastly, the rating felt like a total sandbag to me and both the leader and the "cleaner" are at risk of taking serious falls in several places. If you are doing this with someone who is not solid on exposed 5.6ish runouts, see that they are belayed from both sides. All in all, it's one of the most interesting routes over Boulder!
Submitted by: mbg on 2004-11-01
Route ID: 11737