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Standard North Face - 5.6 popular

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock
R
5
Standard Trad...some scary unprotected face sections.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.80/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.40/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

This was the first route up The Maiden in 1944, quite a feat for it's time. At the upper (west)end of the spire is a short face, climb it and then scramble down to a ledge. Work across the ridge to the Crow's Nest (a small platform where the West Face rises 120 feet OVER you. Work down the north face to a ledge and then up to a tree (scary). Follow the crack from the tree to a bolt, then either climb down to an inside corner and then up to a ledge, or up to a bolt and then down the top of a flake to the ledge. From here you climb up behind a large block to a tree, and then scramble up the East Ridge to the summit and an incredible view of Boulder. Rappell to the Crow's Nest from the fixed cables around a block on top, watch your aim and it is at least 120 feet down, completely free of the rock. *begin edit by mbg* The summit rap anchor now consists of two good bolts with a chain and a ring. Also, most guidebooks/topos show each rap to be 120' long but a 60m cord (make sure it really is 60m 1st!) will barely get you down both with stretch. If you're crazy enough to attempt the Maiden on a windy day don't try the one rope trick; getting blown around with only a stub of rope below your breaking device would be terrifying. Lastly, the rating felt like a total sandbag to me and both the leader and the "cleaner" are at risk of taking serious falls in several places. If you are doing this with someone who is not solid on exposed 5.6ish runouts, see that they are belayed from both sides. All in all, it's one of the most interesting routes over Boulder!

Submitted by: mbg on 2004-11-01
Views: 1665
Route ID: 11737

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: oldclimber on 1977-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars BITD

None

Added: 2012-09-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: percious on 2008-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars climbing with arm

best rappel ever.

Added: 2008-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: speedywon on 2007-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Standard North Face

Lots of fun, and lots or runout. We placed 12 total pieces for the route. The rapel was a blast.

Added: 2007-08-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1994-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Cool adventure

A mystical adventure on a crazy rock. Action-packed for the grade.

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: davedlg on 2000-04-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars One of my favorites

One of my favorite climbs anywhere. I've probably climbed this one half a dozen times.

Added: 2006-11-16

... Read all 13 ascent notes