About thirty feet up the north face is a ledge leading out to a crack on the south face. Layback up the crack (hard at the top) and pull to the ridge with a hidden hold. Belay beneath the overhanging headwall. Clip as high as you can on the bolt ladder, then step right and climb the edge (crux, exposed) and then left above the overhang to the slabs on the south face. Join the standard route to the top.
Submitted by: polarwid on 2002-02-07
Route ID: 11743
This is one of, if not the best climb, I've done in The Flatirons, maybe even Colorado. There are definitely some sketchy bits but the cruxes are well protected. Really fun climbing. Guidebook gives it 5.10c, I'd agree with that.
I did this when the bolts were pretty bad, so it was more exciting. Still, the crux was super short and most of the route was mellow. The spire is so awesome, though, and it's cool to be on the crest of a thin fin.