Start to the north (right) of the First Flatironette. Head up to a five foot vertical step, where the Spy becomes a separate rock. Climb over the step either on the left or right (slightly harder).
Continue up the narrow ridge to the summit. Very exposed and run out. Take caution in that a fall could result in a pendulum swing down the side, and it could be hard to return to the route.
From the summit you can continue to scramble west and up one last slap. Get over the overhang/gap by jumping to the sloped slap below. It looks a bit unnerving, but isn't that bad. The landing rock is pretty sticky and the landing is softer on your feet than you'd expect.
Jump off as above, and hike back down the north side. Alternatively, some people will down climb to the south or rap off the north side (no anchor bolts).
Submitted by: Ebb on 2008-09-06
Route ID: 94919
Don't blow this one off just because it's a "5.3." Amazing views and significant exposure make it worthwhile. And while the technicality may be "5.3," the risks involved with the thin, run out pro, slippery lichen and narrow ridge (a fall from which would be very difficult or impossible to return to the route from) can get your heart going a bit (not to mention the "jump off" descent to finish things off).