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Death and Transfiguration - 5.11b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Standard Rack to a 3.5 friend; extra 2.5-3 friends.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This is the obvious right-leaning crack/roof system on the North Face. Near the top, the route leaves the leaning crack (which continues as Transgression, 5.12-) and turns the upper-most roof at a spectacular notch. This is considered the crux of the route, although 2 lower sections feel similarly difficult. This route involves all manner of steep climbing, including under-clings, jug hauling, wild (and tricky) stemming and backstepping, and difficult hand and finger jamming. Look for some creative rests along the way. At the top, continue up the low-angle ridge to the summit of Green Mountain Pinnacle, where one can rappel 75-100 feet (depending on what kind of downclimbing you want to do) to the NW.

Submitted by: admin on 2003-10-31
Views: 541
Route ID: 43745

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1995-04-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic flatirons

I think this route is more like 10d but I love it. I love imagining Roger Briggs saying screw this aid stuff and cranking up this in the 70's with his aiders flapping in the breeze.

Added: 2007-04-06

Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: takeme on 2003-10-29 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I amazed myself by following the route cleanly. Felt easier than 10+/11- roofs I've done in Eldo--e.g., Vertigo, Art's Spar, Guenese, etc. Probably my favorite pitch in the Boulder area! Good thing, too, 'cause it took us an hour and a half of near-hopelessly lost bushwhacking to find the crag. The final bizarre, exposed, and though-provoking moves out the notch are about the coolest 10-15 feet of climbing I've ever done!

Witnessed by: Chris W.
Added: 2003-10-29