Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : Boulder Area : Flatirons - Third Flatiron : East Face : Standard East Face
PreviousStandard East Face - 5.4 popular
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Rock
Up to #3 Camalot, can be done with less. Best to go light - set of nuts and small to medium cams - s
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Description:
Nice route, great for multipitch beginners. Kind of like going for a hike on the side of a rock. You always have a nice view while belaying. First 5 belays are at giant eyebolts, with the last bolt at the top right of the 'C'. For the standard 6th pitch, go up and slightly left above the belay to a very easy steep section and continue up excellently featured rock almost 200 feet to a great belay (look carefully for a large hole to thread and a rock horn to sling). For the 7th pitch, traverse right to a large chockstone that allows you to step over the 'gash' and continue up the runout crux to the summit. A direct sixth pitch, that is right after you leave the last eyebolt, and cross the 'gash', you can keep climbing until you get to the top of the gash if you have a 60 m rope. It is really tight to make it to this belay, but its a great place to belay because of the crack, ledge and big boulder which accompany it. Be sure to allow plenty of time if you are belaying all of the 7 pitches.
Submitted by: mountainmonkey on 2002-09-04
Views: 826
Route ID: 5956
Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)
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62 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 62 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.2 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Great climb.
Fun. A group from Boulder was doing time trials while I was on it. They were in running shoes and lightweight harnesses.
The first pitch has 2 bolts; the intermediate bolt that can be seen from the East Bench. Pitches 2-5 each have 1 bolt at the belay stance. It could be easy to go past a bolt but climb slow and keep looking around and you should see every one.
We went left of the channel for the 6th pitch which has no bolt. Pitch 7 is hard to place gear on but pretty easy.
It was possible to place a lot of gear along the way. I took only 7 nuts, quickdraws and some shoulder length slings. I never placed over three pieces of protection (nuts, threaded slots, slung horns), though that ended up feeling only like practice setting gear. The climb can be very runout, though if you look, you can definitely find plenty of gear placements. I would recommend also bringing 3 Camalots (#1-3) if you were climbing with gear.
The first pitch has 2 bolts; the intermediate bolt that can be seen from the East Bench. Pitches 2-5 each have 1 bolt at the belay stance. It could be easy to go past a bolt but climb slow and keep looking around and you should see every one.
We went left of the channel for the 6th pitch which has no bolt. Pitch 7 is hard to place gear on but pretty easy.
It was possible to place a lot of gear along the way. I took only 7 nuts, quickdraws and some shoulder length slings. I never placed over three pieces of protection (nuts, threaded slots, slung horns), though that ended up feeling only like practice setting gear. The climb can be very runout, though if you look, you can definitely find plenty of gear placements. I would recommend also bringing 3 Camalots (#1-3) if you were climbing with gear.
Added: 2009-10-11
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
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| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
awesome
climbed it in two groups of two; the leaders were mostly right next to each other going up. very runout but very easy; we basically just climbed until our rope ran out. the whole thing went in four pitches; a couple ended near bolts. (near the top of the C being one.)
Added: 2009-09-22
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.4 |
| Safety Rating | G |
awesome
very cool
Added: 2009-09-14
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | 5.4 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
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chill but rap anchor sucks
Great route, incredible scenery, the plains melt away in the distance, awesome exposure. Downsides are this climb sees tons of traffic, when I climbed it there were climbing parties everywhere, didn't have to wait to climb, did have to wait to rappel. At the time, there was a single eyebolt sticking 4+ inches out of the rock which you have to rappel off of the summit. This anchor bends under the weight of people rapping off, a lot. There is only one anchor - hopefully this has been replaced as it is a tragedy waiting to happen - it WILL break someday.
Added: 2009-02-12
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.4 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Solo ascent by:
Third Flatiron Solo
Nice intro to Colorado rock.
Added: 2009-01-29
