This is located in a corner just before reaching the Pay Homage wall if you are walking over from the Hedgeclipper area. This is the longest route at Castlewood, which makes it a little less than average Shelf road route for the hieght.
Start up the corner and work your way up to a ledge. Either tackle the face head on or step left make a move up in the gully then step back right. Climb up to the next ledge to the imposing bulge. This is the crux. Off of some crimps step up as high as possible. Just under and left of what looks like a good side pull is a decent edge for your left. It's just on the other side of the arete. Follow the seam right horizontally and there is an okay crimp for your right. High step up to the lower crimp you were just using earlier on your left. Lean into it and reach up above and left of the next bolt for a good left. Clip and make a couple of moves to the anchors. Hard to figure out the move, but easy to do once you got it. 11a for the mental puzzle, more like 10b if you figure it out.
Submitted by: killclimbz on 2004-09-24
Route ID: 59912