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Heinous sloper crack - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Trad)
There are no bolts except one at the top that I put 15 years ago, bring a rack, cams, hexi's, bolts, and an ascender, descender mechanism.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating X
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5


5.8+ to 5.12a depending on the path you take. Power crack climb, Starts out with wide foot and hand holds, narrowing and then spreading , narrowing and then spreading. The 5.8 section will then take you too the back of the crack and changes to face climbing. The 12a section is straight up ,choose a side and commit . The nature of this crack dictates that even a short fall could be fatal, Be tight with the pro.

Descent Options:

At the top of the 8+ there is a single bolt, but you can just walk down the back side.

Submitted by: MJCMAJIC on 2010-08-01
Last Modified: 2010-08-02
Views: 459
Route ID: 105963

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2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating X
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: MJCMAJIC on 1994-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars free solo

The first time I climbed this route was when I found it. I free soloed it ( not suggested). It seemed like a big cheese crack and I was a strong crack climber so I went for it with a harness and three cams. It turned into face climbing and I found my self near the top with the scare crow legs. Dynoed up and caught a descent jug. Laughed, cried ,and prayed. Will Rodgers shrine of the sun played climb every mountain and I walked down.

Added: 2010-08-08

  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: MJCMAJIC on 2010-07-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars A little for every one

I took my 11 year old son to this climb for the first time, he failed on the 8+ but made it through the first crux. The Will Rodgers shrine of the sun chimes can be heard with clarity and at 5:pm it plays multiple songs

Added: 2010-08-01