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Gneiss Roof - 5.9

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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12 QDs (few mid and shoulder-length slings), RPs-med stoppers, small TCUs-#2 camalot
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


5.9+ P1. First pitch of Gneiss Route. 12 bolts, 5.11-, 120 feet. P2. Hand traverse left past two clips to steep left leaning ramp. Balance up ramp to stance under roof. Traverse under roof (#3 TCU/#1 friend), clip bolt after roof and continue straight up (possible RP) to the plush 'Ashtray Belay'. Optional 150 foot rap to ground. 5 bolts, 5.9, 60 feet. P3. Stem up dihedral, step right onto arete and stretch up to the start of the roof crack (#2 Camalot). Make an airy hand traverse right using the roof crack for pro (#.75 and #1 camalot), placing the last piece as high as you can reach. Mantle over the right side of the roof and clip a bolt. Continue straight up over slabs, bulges and roofs to Surette Ledge. Optional creative gear belay above the third bolt. 6 bolts, 5.9+, 120 feet. Descent: Walk off left across exposed ledge and descend the loose hillside. OR, Traverse right to last anchors of Gneiss Route and rap twice with two ropes or three times with 70m cord. Be very careful of loose rock on ledge. Photo:

Submitted by: mountainmonkey on 2003-11-25
Views: 762
Route ID: 30183

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: boomshackalak on 2011-04-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars did pitch 1&2

had to bail after the roof traverse cause my partner was too shaky. awesome climbing up to that point tho!

Added: 2012-03-12

Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: lokiraven on 2006-01-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Fucking cool route. Linked it up w/ Ride the snake

Added: 2006-01-14