Skip to Content

Merlin - 5.11d

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
4 or 5 bolts? to anchor.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.33/5

Description:

This route is on a small rock along the approach to New River Wall, namely the short (~45 foot) rock just above the river after the Tyrolean just prior to New River Wall. Ascends the left side of the rock. The first few moves are very juggy and fun, then attacks the tricky crux in the crack before attaining good underclings at a small overlap. Pull above this to a large corner , clip and make a couple more juggy moves left to the chains. Fun but short (1.5 stars). Decent route to get the blood flowing a little before hopping on Sonic Youth.

Submitted by: bluesky on 2002-10-29
Views: 538
Route ID: 26282

6 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 6 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: mcernie on 2008-08-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars flash

good warmup for sonic youth, but pretty damn fun in its own right

Added: 2008-08-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: furrymurry on 2007-08-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Merlin

good fun, wish it was longer

Added: 2007-08-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: RockyMcD on 2005-01-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars yep

it's weird

Added: 2007-01-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: z_k on 2006-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars short and powerful

it's a moody route

Added: 2006-11-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bluesky on 2001-04-22 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

2nd Try.

Added: 2001-04-22

... Read all 6 ascent notes