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East Face of North Gateway

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About East Face of North Gateway:

Yup, climbing on the east face. Some choss, but some coolness too. Since the route db wont let me update for some reason here is the description for the best roue on the face: The Butcher-Twombly Pro: Long slings for pothole threads. A few medium to large cams. Handful of medium stoppers. Route: My favorite at the garden. 4-6 pitches of awesomeness. Start on the easy ramp on the southeast face (faces tourist central). A pothole thread about halfway up provides pro until you get to a belay anchor. Scramble up unroped or simul climb the 3/4 class gully until you get to the last crack system (the largest). Careful startingout on this pitch, you wont fall (its 5.4), but if something were to happen before you got pro in, you and your belayer could take quite a tumble. Crawl through a cool tunnel to find a piton/pothole anchor. Next pitch is short. Walk (I mean walk) over and climb around the corner to anchors on top of the west face. A potholethread and a nut placement will protect your second. Weenies can stop here and rap the west face making the route 5.4 If you are not a girly man, climb the sandy and almost unprotected chimney/gully above. Its only 5.6 but scary as hell as a result of the severe runout and the sandiness. Dont break anything off and fall, your belayer wouldnt be too happy with a 100foot factor two to catch. Pitch ends in a cool little nest to your right were you can get a cam and thread a few potholes. The final pitch is a blast. Tightrope walk it for maximum effect. Its a traverse up to the neck of the kissing camels. Very little pro (some marginal placements), but its not really even 5th class until the top- more of a balance beam. A 3 piton belay anchor can be found at the top. Its currently a rats nest of shoestrings- might want to sacrafince some webbing to the good karma gods. Decent: Rap the west face. The rappel MAXES out a 60m rope and I mean maxes. I was on the knots to clip the anchors. Back up the rappel or bring something longer (or bring two ropes). Alternatively, you can downclimb to the lower anchor (easily visible from the top)- it should be shorter.
Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Sandstone
Type of Climbing: Trad
Sun Aspect:


SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
1 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Snuggles and Fall Crack (3) 5.8 3

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