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Snuggles and Fall Crack - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
Medium to large, quickdraws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

2 pitches. Perhaps the best crack climb in the Garden of the Gods. Begin by scrambling up what the guide book calls 5.5 onto a sloping ledge system. It is sandy and if you're carrying lots of gear it can be tricky. Belay below the obvious corner crack. P1 (Snuggles): Layback and jam the crack in the right-facing corner (5.8) to a ledge with a 2-piton anchor. 2 drilled pitons. P2 (Fall Crack): Jam the awkward crack (5.8+) to a piton anchor. It starts out offwidth with no good face holds. A very large cam here is nice to have before you get to the first piton. We used a #6 C4 Camalot. Watch for loose blocks. 3 drilled pitons. Descent: Rappel the route

Submitted by: steve-o on 2005-04-09
Views: 562
Route ID: 65509

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3 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2012-11-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Excellent Crack

Really good crack climbing by Garden standards. Protection is good if you bring 5/6 for Fall Crack although the drilled pin anchor at the top is a little sketchy. Didn't have a 5/6 and the tipped out 4 provided no confidence but once you get into the crack it's not bad at all. Beware of the rocking block at the very top, that's a Ralston accident waiting to happen.

Added: 2012-11-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: capnmark on 2006-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

I seconded this route with zacrobinson who did a fine lead of this somewhat strenuous route.

Added: 2006-06-22

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: steve-o on 2005-03-23 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This was our first climb in Garden of the Gods. The approach is sketchy with a heavy pack on. Pretty funny watching Brit start up the 2nd pitch - quite wide! Stupid pidgeon poop. Lots and lots of gawkers.

Witnessed by: Brit Flinchbaugh
Added: 2005-03-23