This route starts in the saddle between Tweedledumshire and the main face of the rock. The approach is to either climb one of the 5.11 or harder routes to the saddle, or ascend Tourist Gully to almost the top and downclimb a narrow ledge to the steep water gully leading to the saddle. Rappel 60 feet to the ledge at the start of the route. Climb up and around the ridge on the left side of the saddle until you are standing on a small ledge leading up and left. Traverse up this and up the crack leading to a large belay ledge on the tip of a pinnacle somehow glued to the face of the rock. Be sure your partner is solid in the grade because a fall will leave him dangling below the large roof the route traverses above(thus the name). Continue up from the belay on a loose face with scant pro.
Dangerous but a fun route with some great exposure.
Submitted by: polarwid on 2002-01-15
Route ID: 10468