Skip to Content

Triple Exposure - A1

Average Rating = 1.67/5 Average Rating : 1.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
Aid
Bolts and thin crack gear up to #2.5 friend & #1 Tricam
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.13a A3
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.33/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 1.67/5

Description:

This is an aid route that has been climbed free at 5.12c/d. Most mortals will do the aid variation (C1). This route is on the north face of North Gateway rock. If ascends the overhanging face which is just over the fence from the parking lot. Begin by scrambling (5.4) up a sloping ramp to the start of a bolt ladder. A easy free move will get you past the first gap in the ladder and a #1 tricam will get you past the second gap. Watch out for rope drag on this first pitch when the route jogs right. There are a set of anchors about 100 feet up and you can belay from these or continue up another 50 feet and aid the thin crack with a few bolts to another set of anchors and belay there. The next pitch is all bolts and goes left into a dihedral. From the summit either rap the route with 2 ropes (each rap is about 150 feet) or rap into the notch between the main rock and the Tower of Babel(hidden Valley) and rappell 150 feet to the ground from there.

Submitted by: polarwid on 2002-01-23
Views: 950
Route ID: 10558

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: alpinst777 on 2008-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Not my Idea of fun

Asked around about clean aid lines to practice for an up comming trip to
Utah, was told about Tripple ex on one site... said to be a good outing
hahahahhahahahahahhhah The joke was on me....

I slung a large boulder at the base w/an extra rope for my bomb proof belay
and set off just like the SS Minnow on what I thought would be a three hour trip..

I topped out after 4+ hours of some of the most crappy rock/climbing I think Ive ever been on , the first belay as far as I was concerned was a
don't fall on this affair and the rest was pretty much the same deal.I was very thankful I brought some 3/4 angles to hand place on this route should have brought a hammer as well!


Euroford hit the nail on the head with this one....he was the smart one he bailed




Added: 2009-04-25

Ratings
  Difficulty A2+
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: alpinst777 on 2008-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars Not my Idea of fun

Asked around about clean aid lines to practice for an up comming trip to
Utah, was told about Tripple ex on one site... said to be a good outing
hahahahhahahahahahhhah The joke was on me....

I slung a large boulder at the base w/an extra rope for my bomb proof belay
and set off just like the SS Minnow on what I thought would be a three hour trip..

I topped out after 4+ hours of some of the most crappy rock/climbing I think Ive ever been on , the first belay as far as I was concerned was a
don't fall on this affair and the rest was pretty much the same deal.I was e brought some 3/4 angles to hand place on this route should have brought a hammer as well!
very thankful to hav

Euroford hit the nail on the head with this one....he was the smart one he bailed




Added: 2009-04-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.13a A3+
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: impreza44 on 2000-07-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Tricam eh?

I encountered an issue on the first pitch due to missing pins. I ended up using a clip stick to reach the farther fin, then aided up to the belay. Rope drag was terrible and our haul bag almost had to stay down. Very exposed. Love my rope.

Added: 2008-02-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: euroford on 2005-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

we did the first pitch of this on aid and i took two falls while trying to get past the 'pink tricam' move mentioned in all route descriptions. that pink tricam pocket is completly warn out and its like trying to stick a tricam in the bottom of a shotglass. i couldn't get it to work so i resorted to two attempts at aliens that both resulted in pretty decent falls. eventually i did use a tricam higher up in the crack system after screwing around for ages.

weather was closing in and i was having enough of that so we rapped off. an intresting outing on an amazing feature with absolutly the worst rock quality i've ever encountered. actually, we were talking to a geologist giving a tour, and he told us its actually -not- even classified as rock, but just compacted sand....

i won't be going back, but if you live in this neck of the woods and want to train for the fishers, go for it! (and seek mental help)

Added: 2005-06-26