Perfect jams lead to a bulge crux with tricky sequencing.
Where is it? This climb is in a corner about 20 feet right of the "Chunky Monkey" arÍte. The start is identified by two parallel cracks. The crack on the right looks like an "S" and is about 40' in length.
Start by jamming up the two cracks. As the cracks thin at a bulge, you will follow the left crack up a corner. The bulge can either be negotiated head on, or by staying right of the bulge and then moving left across the top of the bulge (fun!). Protection at this point is thin, but I found a good placement for a blue Alien (3/8") in the left crack. Move straight up the corner to a ledge with loose rock. Carefully move left on the ledge and follow the last two bolts of "Chunky Monkey" to bolted anchors.
Submitted by: MilkyTech on 2011-07-25
Route ID: 109454