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Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : High Peaks : Elk Range : Capitol Peak : Northwest Buttress/Capitol Peak

Northwest Buttress/Capitol Peak - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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pro to 3", HELMET!
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Committed alpine route. 13-18 pitches (there is 400 feet of 4th class slabs after pitch 2 that may be done with or without roping up). This route can be done in a day depending on speed and route finding ability. However, if you are not familiar with the mountain and alpine climbing, please know that this is a serious endeavor. If not efficient in climbing, or you become lost on route, you may end up with a forced bivy at high altitudes. Crux is the 5.9 finger crack start. Second pitch is a 5.8 chimney. The rest of the climb should go at 5.7 and below. Very loose rock. Beautiful & exposed. Be sure to wear a helmet. Descend standard route (Knife Ridge). For more information and topo, refer to Louis W. Dawson's Guide, 'To Colorado Fourteeners, VOL 1'.

Submitted by: kcrag on 2004-04-19
Views: 1345
Route ID: 39262

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pyramid on 1982-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Capitol Peak/NW route

Wonderful route, but of a more serious nature. Good Alpine climb esp. for
Colorado. Gear wasn't quite as good as these days.

Added: 2007-07-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: iceisnice on 2006-08-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars quality 14neer route

great climb. pretty easy. did it in 4hrs from a high camp. first pitch has to be done to be believed. not as loose as people let on.

Added: 2006-12-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: iceisnice on 2006-08-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars quality 14neer route

great climb. pretty easy. did it in 4hrs from a high camp. first pitch has to be done to be believed. not as loose as people let on.

Added: 2006-12-04