Committed alpine route. 13-18 pitches (there is 400 feet of 4th class slabs after pitch 2 that may be done with or without roping up). This route can be done in a day depending on speed and route finding ability. However, if you are not familiar with the mountain and alpine climbing, please know that this is a serious endeavor. If not efficient in climbing, or you become lost on route, you may end up with a forced bivy at high altitudes. Crux is the 5.9 finger crack start. Second pitch is a 5.8 chimney. The rest of the climb should go at 5.7 and below. Very loose rock. Beautiful & exposed. Be sure to wear a helmet. Descend standard route (Knife Ridge). For more information and topo, refer to Louis W. Dawson's Guide, 'To Colorado Fourteeners, VOL 1'.
Submitted by: kcrag on 2004-04-19
Route ID: 39262