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Left Side - 5.8

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
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Alpine rock rack with small to medium nuts and cams. Long slings are helpful.
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5.8+. Follow the left angling crack system and angle up left to a small overhang. Traverse left under the overhang and over a slab to a right-facing, right-leaning system. Follow this somewhat broken system of cracks, flakes, and slabs for 500-600 feet past mostly solid rock to a large grassy ledge just below the headwall (mostly 5.6 with some 5.7 moves). Move straight up the obvious crack above the ledge, to a hand traverse left, then move back right on another small ledge to a short finger crack in a dihedral. Ascend this finger crack to a stance behind a leaning block, then climb a perfect hand and fist crack behind the block to another hand traverse left which puts you on yet another small grassy ledge (5.8+ in several spots on this section). Another 80-90 feet of 5.6 gets you to the summit from here. Walk off or rappel down the gully on the right just past the 3rd Apron.

Submitted by: sharpie on 2004-07-12
Views: 388
Route ID: 55816