This is the obvious splitter up the south end of the wall. Start as for Good Evans. Pitch 1 climb up the left side of a large flake. Belay at either the base of the obvious wide crack or a bolted stance a short way up and w eird traverse right(5.8).
Pitch 2 Climb the wide crack for a long pitch, belay at a bolt and the worlds worst fixed piton on the right(5.10+). Pitch 3, continue up the wide crack climbing through a Pegmatite roof/bulge. After the bulge numerous crack systems start to appear. This is the upper section of Good evans, belay at a nice little ledge on the right(5.10+). Pitch 4, climb up and left following discontious cracks. Climb up into a right facing corner and towards a roof, there are 2 fixed pins to guide the way. Climb out the left side of the roof and belay at an old bolt on a good ledge(5.10). Pitch 5, step around left and follow thye path of least resistance to the summit(very short and 5.7).
Rack...set and a half of nuts, singles Green Alien to #3 camalot. 1 Old style #5 camalot, 2 #6 C4's. You will need to walk cams!
Submitted by: flamer on 2006-08-11
Route ID: 78836