A great multi-pitch ice route in a beautiful high-alpine environment. This route follows the largest ice flow on the northeast facing slope of Thachtop. There are numerous other lines of various difficulty in the immediate area ranging from WI-2/3 to M-hard. P1 of AMU follows low angle ice over a couple short curtains. Belay on the flat shelf of ice just below the next steeper curtain, anchor options will be dependent on current conditions. The second pitch climbs several short steep steps. Pull over the bulge to a 25-30m snow pitch, belay either below the snow field with screws in the bulge above P2 or with 70m ropes reach the base of the upper pitch. The P3 snow field is about 40-45 degrees, but can be wind loaded and may present serious avy danger. P4 follows the obvious steep narrow ice-filled gully. This pitch sucks up screws and frequent placements, especially down low, are a good idea. DESCENT: Move up and to the left from the top of P4 gradually angling around and down back to the base of the climb, if the terrain gets too steep or sketchy you are probably too close to the cliff band and need to move further right until the obvious low angle gully becomes clear.
Submitted by: sharpie on 2004-11-24
Route ID: 61985