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Direct Second Buttress - 5.10a

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
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  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


This route sees little traffic, but is as good as any other route I've done on Hallet. it is common among those who do attempt it to get off route in the first two pitches and end up bailing or eventually merging with Jackson-Johnson. The trick is to locate the giant RF corner right of the Culp-Bossier's start. Count three corners right of this huge feature, and start there. It helps to walk a ways out from the wall, where you can see bail slings atop this corner. The corner is 5.8, belay to the left of the slings. P2 is the crux, following the flake (with fixed pin) up and right above the belay, then up thin cracks (seemed soft for .10a) to a ledge. The anchors suck on this ledge--it's best to belay lower in the thin cracks just after the crux, or combine with the next pitch which is quite runout to start. The latter option will be a 60 meter rope-stretcher to get to solid anchors. This third pitch, rated 5.6, continues straight up, then traverses right on a ledge. P4 climbs a 5.5 right-facing, but left-leaning corner. The next three pitches are all about 5.8 and follow the prominent right-leaning crack system above the corner. They are steep and juggy, offering the route's best climbing. The final pitch is mainly easy, but rather loose, and heads up and left into a notch (the left of 2) to the top of the wall.

Submitted by: takeme on 2004-12-09
Views: 552
Route ID: 62423

1 Ascent Recorded

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Onsight Onsight ascent by: takeme on 2001-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Fun route that doesn't see much action. Crux pitch seemed pretty easy for .10a, which was a good thing 'cause I had a hell of a time finding a bomber anchor after leading it. Probably the scariest anchor I've ever belayed from on a hard pitch, but Dave was solid following.

Witnessed by: Dave Ellis
Added: 2001-06-25