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Jackson Johnson - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
standard rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

This is a fun and mostly very moderate route on the 2nd buttress. Begin right of the Love Route's huge groove/corner, with face climbing to a left-leaning corner. Traverse right on a ledge and climb a seam to a belay lege. P2 continues up the crack, over a roof, and right across an easy slab to belay. Pitches 3 and 4 traverse right into a large, loose, very easy recess which is grovelled up right to belay below a prominent LF, R-leaning corner. This corner goes in 60 meters of 5.6 to a beautiful ledge. Another 60 meters up and back left in various corners leads to a belay ledge below an overhanging RF corner. This is the crux and best pitch on the route; exposed and awesome 5.9 past old fixed mank. Belay or stretch it past 5.4 wandering face to the top.

Submitted by: takeme on 2004-12-09
Views: 533
Route ID: 26736

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: willwill on 2013-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars none

none

Added: 2013-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1999-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Route-finding...

I've done this route twice and messed up the first half both times. The first time we got back without much difficulty, but the second time we ended up in no man's land to the right of the route and climbed some sketchy 5.10 terrain. I probably won't go back again...

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: powder_dreams on 2005-07-25 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Tromp for 8 pitches to a 5.9 crux

Added: 2005-07-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: climbergirl on 2001-06-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Witnessed by: my dad - Jeff
Added: 2001-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: takeme on 2000-08-26 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Fun route--some wandering loose easy pitches, but lots of great steep climbing on the upper half, the crux pitch in particular. In 2003 Pat and I did the route in 2 pitches in about 1.5 hours, then came down and did the Love Route in similar fashion. We wanted to go for the trifecta with the Culp-Bossier, but weather intervened.

Witnessed by: Kurt (2000), Pat aka "Lumpy" in 2003
Added: 2000-08-26

... Read all 8 ascent notes