Casual Route - 5.10a popular

Classic for a reason (fantastic climbing/position) but a little too crowded for my tastes (5 parties on the route!?). The rappel route seems to be a popular option but I strongly prefer the Cables descent unless you're bailing. While rapping the face, we found it difficult to find the bolts and ended up rapping a different line. Then we never found the lower rap stations and ended up rapping the North Chimney. I'm sure it's easy if you know where they are but doing these raps while parties on D-7 drop rocks on you seems way more of a hassle than the trivial Cables descent. Not that it really matters but the grade seemed a bit on the soft side, easier than several of the 5.9s in the area.

amazing route

Nice route up the diamond with forrest finish. Loved the traverse low on the route.

Great route. I'm quite solid at the grade, but I was tired (also 3rd day in a row and acclimatizing). I got tired leading the long 5.8 corner, and grunted through the chimney before the crux bulge. The crux protects very well - it's not hard, it's just at the end of the route. Great day, only ones on the Diamond or Chasm View at all! Three snow squalls, but no lightning. Rappel route is VERY confusing (bolt stations are hard to find, one missing on lower slabs?)

While the 5.10a rating is accurate, it does not convey the scope of this route. This is a real Diamond route--meaning you have to deal with a long approach, altitude, and the relentless steepness which makes the Diamond unique. It's a grand adventure, though, and should whet your appetite for more!