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Jim Dunn/Billy Westbay
Triple cams tiny to mid, single set to friend size #5, double stoppers, lots of Rp's and offset brassies, ballnuts, cam hooks and regular hooks. No pins, no bolts, no heads, no hammer.
approach view chasm view raps, traverse broadway, begin right of dunn/westbay pillar (green pillar), climb three pitches (5.8, 5.10, 5.10 or 5.8, C1, C1) to top of pillar. traverse right trending upwards off the top of the pillar towards past some heads (C3) towards the bottom of the large flake, follow the underside of the large flake (C1) back left until you intersect the thin vert. crack. follow this crack 4 pitches (C3, C3, C2, C2) to the underside of table ledge (which is a roof at this point). Traverse briefly right off the belay to gain a thin crack, follow for two pitches (C2, C2) until you hit a large ledge. Another 30 foot scramble (5.6 and 4th) tops you out.
bivy on top of pillar and fire the route or bring the portaledge and be prepared to sit out the weather.
descend the cables route
Submitted by: euroford on 2008-07-07
Route ID: 94528