Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Standard "light" alpine rack. One section of OW if you go that option, but one #3.5 Camalot should be fine.
Get to the Keyhole, before the hut anle up and left for about 250 feet. The easiest option is to continue traversing until you want to go up, at that point do a switch back up ledges to get to the start of the climbing. This will put you at the "pass" that will take you back down to the keyhole trail (an interesting shortcut for the keyhole hiking route).
Climb up and left up the "1st tower" you get to. Work your way up and over for short down climb and traverse. Continue over and across and up again to a low angle slabby section. At this point I like to traverse left then up then left again to avoid "summiting" on the tower you've been climbing under. This allows you to avoid a hairy downclimb off the "summit" and puts you onto the backside of the ridge again. From here it is easy routefinding to the summit of longs.
Many options for the descent. Bailing is available 1/4 the way up the route on the backside and another option down a ramp on the backside about 1/2 way up.
Submitted by: Massimo on 2007-08-28
Route ID: 87625
Longs is not a cakewalk. Not a difficult climb past the Keyhole, but a long day, some exposure, and plenty of traffic. This was a good day to go with low probability for T-storms. Just a long way down. Very satisfying to have completed my first summit.