pitch 1:start on either side of the mitten. the left start is 5.9 left facing corner to the top of the mitten.right start is Ariana; 5.11a with 3 bolts, climbing the right side of the mitten.
pitch 2: climb a blocky corner to a stance (5.9) or continue up to pitch 3: crack system leads to a small roof past old bolt (5.9) to a good stance. (pitch 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 may be run together as the crack system is very straightforward.)pitch 4: exposed thin hands, hands splitter (.10c-.11a depending on your hand size) belay on the wedged block or continue up pitch 5: continue up ever widening splitter going from hands to fists to OW, belay on nice ledge.pitch 6: 5.9 fingers in a corner to table ledge then keiners route to the summit.
Submitted by: jcinco on 2003-07-15
Route ID: 9250
The first pitch was wet, and probably 5.8 R after that it was pure enjoyment. I remember being startled upon reaching the top of the pillar, and looking 200 ft down the back side. Caught in a raging storm at the top.
One of my proudest "onsights", tagging the summit in a fantastic day car to car. Not all the pitches here are good but the two crux pitches are some of the most amazing I've ever climbed in the mountains. Went back a week later to do the Casual Route and bivied but I thought car to car was LESS total effort.
Great route up the diamond, first couple pitches are a little loose, but the quality get better and better as you ascend. The upper pitches really got the heart rate and breathing going. Got hammered by the weather for a while.