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"Easy" Yellow Wall - 5.10b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

I'm adding this route to differentiate it from both the original Kor line of the Yellow Wall, and from the Forrest Finish to the Yellow Wall. The "easy" Yellow Wall uses pitches from both, resulting in a route that is easier than either of these named variations. Because of this, it also seems to be more popular--basically, it's the 3rd easiest way to climb the Diamond after the Causal Route and Pervertical. Most importantly, it's a phenomenal route, one of the best long 5.10 climbs in the country. Anyway, climb the first 3 and a half pitches of the Yellow Wall (use the easy option on P1)--awesome, exposed 5.9 and 5.10 climbing on finger cracks and abundant edges. Continue for one and a half pitches of the Forrest Finish, with wider 5.10 cracks--a #4 camalot comes in handy but there isn't much in the way of pure offwidth climbing. Above are the final 3 pitches of the Forrest Finish, with good but somewhat harder climbing. Instead, traverse (5.7) right to the Yellow Wall bivy ledge, and climb the 10a pitch shared by the original Yellow Wall and Casual Route. Above, traverse off left as for the Casual to keep the grade at .10b or so; otherwise, the original line of the Yellow Wall continues above with hard, sustained 5.10 climbing. Comparing the "easy" Yellow Wall to Pervertical, I would say Pervertical has a harder crux, but overall EYW is longer and more taxing, with about twice the amount of 5.10 climbing. I'd recommend it to anyone who has done Casual and Pervertical and wants to do another classic Diamond route, but doesn't want to tackle the 5.11 climbing on classics like D7, Black Dagger, and the original Yellow Wall route. Also, it is a good alternative if Pervertical is crowded, as it takes a similar rack.

Submitted by: takeme on 2005-08-31
Views: 1172
Route ID: 66085

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1997-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic Diamond!

This route is a perfect way to experience the Yellow Wall portion of the Diamond. Killer day!

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jim23 on 1998-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars All but pitch up to 'Almost Table Ledge'

Did the first four brilliant, steep pitches before getting stormed off. very sustained 5.9-5.10- climbing on solid vertical wall. Great route.

Added: 2006-11-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: takeme on 2000-08-10 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Amazing route. I can't imagine 5.10 climbing getting any more spectacular than this. It was quite a reach for me at the time I did it--even more so considering I led both crux pitches. The climb was preceded by a miserable, sleepless fear-filled bivy the night before near Chasm Lake. On the climb, I hung on gear before the thin step across crux, and used several points of aid on the fist and offwidth pitch leading to the Yellow Wall bivy ledge. Yet since the route was such a big step up for me, it still felt like a considerable personal acheivement. I was more wasted after this day than any day of climbing I've ever had before or since--got really sick the week afterward and was completely bedridden for several days. I'd love to come back and tackle the 5.11 cruxes on the original Yellow Wall sometime.

Witnessed by: Pat Vernon
Added: 2000-08-10