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Blitzen Ridge - 5.4

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Thanks to its beautiful rock and wild position in a wilderness setting, Blitzen Ridge is perhaps the best ridge climb in the park. dont be fooled by the 5.4 rating. when planning for this route keep in mind that youll be climbing a rather commiting, lightning prone ridge which is blind to approaching storms. soloists in good alpine shape should find themselves on top of Ypsilon by late morning. roped parties must take extra care to move fast and efficient. if sending the whole shpeal in a day youll want an early start out of the Lawn Lake trail head. hike to Ypsilon Lake and head NW on a small trail leading to Spectacle Lakes. when arriving in the cirque youll want to avoid Spectacle Lakes by cutting right and straight up a talus hill to the start of Blitzen Ridge. head NW and the rounded hill will slowly narrow into a sidewalk of granite. from here youll be able to see how Blitzen curves up and to the left reaching Ypsilons summit. the cruxes of Blitzen Ridge are the Four Aces. you wont hit the peaks of all the aces but rather to the right or left. for the first two aces climb on their left side to get around them. climb straight up the third, and to the right on the fourth(which felt like the crux to me). from this awesome position continue straight up a prow for 200ft. here the ridge eases to 3rd and 4th class but with outstanding exposure to your left. run up this 1000 ft ridge trying to stay left for the best rock and best view. (Taken from

Submitted by: crazyj on 2002-10-21
Views: 1368
Route ID: 25855

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2012-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Best Ridge Ever

This is one of the best ridge climbs I've ever done, almost as good as the Exum Ridge. We started up in fog and it was totally wild to have all that sense of being in open air and totally exposed. The rappel we saw down the third ace was kind of sketchy. Some slings around a sloping horn that were held in place by a block I could easily lift so it didn't hold them in place. Either leave some gear and back it up or downclimb, or sling something better. I wouldn't use it.

Added: 2012-06-10

Red Point Red Point ascent by: sharpie on 2005-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note


Witnessed by: Ben Clark
Added: 2005-07-18

Onsight Onsight ascent by: takeme on 2005-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Fun climbing, especially the 3rd and 4th Aces. Amazing position! I descended the Donner Ridge and took 6.5 hrs car to car, but that was mostly because the trail to Ypsilon Lake is so boring that I hiked as fast as I could on the way in and ran the whole way out. My poor knees!

Witnessed by: solo climb
Added: 2005-07-08

  Safety Rating G
Solo Solo ascent by: flamer on 2003-07-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Onsight solo, car to car 5hrs 28min.
an awesome morning!! Light is right!

Did it again on july, 1st 2004
CTC 5:14:02
Condition's where terrible!! Lot's of snow.

Witnessed by: SOLO!!
Added: 2003-07-14

Onsight Onsight ascent by: bluesky on 2001-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Beyond Fantastic. Quite loose though.

Added: 2001-10-30