Routes : North America : United States : Colorado : High Peaks : Rocky Mountain National Park : Mt. Meeker : Dream Weaver
Dream Weaver - WI3
Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Ice
Light trad rack, ice screws and/or pickets.
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Description:
Dream Weaver is the really cool narrow couloir just left of the Flying Buttress on Mt. Meeker. It's difficulty varies by season. When snowy, it is an easy steep slog. If you catch it at the right time it is really nice ice (AI 3). When that melts out, a couple of steep chimneys make it a mixed climb with rock difficulty up to 5.6 or so. Follow the Longs Peak trail to the Chasm lake turn off, heading straight towards the lake. Once in the cirque below the loft (saddle of Longs and Meeker), head for the wide couloir just left of the Flying Buttress. Climb up the snow field, which narrows to a 5 foot wide couloir abruptly after a ways. Climb through either snow, ice, or rocks depending on the season, possibly passing a couple of steep chimneys to get to a flat area near the top of the Flying Buttress. From here, head a little left into another wide snow field, which chokes down to 3 foot wide section and is excellent ice if you catch it in the right season. Follow this to the broad slopes above which easily reach the summit of Mt. Meeker. Descend via the loft route.
Submitted by: sharpie on 2004-11-23
Views: 1225
Route ID: 51294
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9 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 9 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | WI2 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Solo ascent by:
Wet
Mostly just steep snow with lots of mixed steps due to lack of snow or ice.
Added: 2010-06-18
| Ratings | |
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| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Onsight ascent by:
Fine route, narrow window of opportunity when it's in the right conditions.
Kept my eye on snow conditions for a couple years and couldn't work my schedule around the times it was "in" until this year. Actually would consider this AI3-/M2 if snow conditions are right. We soloed the route & carried a rope just to slow us down.
Added: 2008-07-19
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.4 WI2 M1 F |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Ice In June?
Yes. The step parts of the climb were nice, blue, sticky alpine ice the first week of June. Beautiful
Added: 2007-08-27
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.6 WI2 M1 F |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun Solo
I hit it later in the season than I wanted, but it was still a lot of fun.
Added: 2007-01-29
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| Difficulty | |
Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2004-12-05
