Skip to Content

Dream Weaver - WI3

Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
Premier Sponsor:
Ice
Light trad rack, ice screws and/or pickets.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5 WI2 M1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

Dream Weaver is the really cool narrow couloir just left of the Flying Buttress on Mt. Meeker. It's difficulty varies by season. When snowy, it is an easy steep slog. If you catch it at the right time it is really nice ice (AI 3). When that melts out, a couple of steep chimneys make it a mixed climb with rock difficulty up to 5.6 or so. Follow the Longs Peak trail to the Chasm lake turn off, heading straight towards the lake. Once in the cirque below the loft (saddle of Longs and Meeker), head for the wide couloir just left of the Flying Buttress. Climb up the snow field, which narrows to a 5 foot wide couloir abruptly after a ways. Climb through either snow, ice, or rocks depending on the season, possibly passing a couple of steep chimneys to get to a flat area near the top of the Flying Buttress. From here, head a little left into another wide snow field, which chokes down to 3 foot wide section and is excellent ice if you catch it in the right season. Follow this to the broad slopes above which easily reach the summit of Mt. Meeker. Descend via the loft route.

Submitted by: sharpie on 2004-11-23
Views: 773
Route ID: 51294

Most Recent Photo

9 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty WI2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: jmeizis on 2010-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Wet

Mostly just steep snow with lots of mixed steps due to lack of snow or ice.

Added: 2010-06-18

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: semicolin on 2007-05-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fine route, narrow window of opportunity when it's in the right conditions.

Kept my eye on snow conditions for a couple years and couldn't work my schedule around the times it was "in" until this year. Actually would consider this AI3-/M2 if snow conditions are right. We soloed the route & carried a rope just to slow us down.

Added: 2008-07-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4 WI2 M1 F
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: patorionm on 2007-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ice In June?

Yes. The step parts of the climb were nice, blue, sticky alpine ice the first week of June. Beautiful

Added: 2007-08-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6 WI2 M1 F
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: patorionm on 2006-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun Solo

I hit it later in the season than I wanted, but it was still a lot of fun.

Added: 2007-01-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: fire_or_retire on 2004-12-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2004-12-05

... Read all 9 ascent notes