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Flying Buttress Direct - 5.10c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Small wires to #3 Friend; bring RPs & maybe some flared nuts for pin scars, & a #3 Camalot would be
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

The huge northern fin pointing toward Chasm Lake is the Flying Buttress. There are at least four distinct lines on the formation, and you can mix and match as you desire, but Direct goes more or less right up the crest. Begin on either thin 5.10 cracks or a 5.8 hand crack up a flatiron slab; Step left to an obvious seam and smear your way up this (10c): pro is adequate but difficult to seat well in the pin scars. Continue straight up the pillar to a good ledge. This crux section is demanding and certainly earns its grade. Continue up the prow; each pitch offers a section of 5.9-10 climbing, such as the choice on P3 to fire the intimidating 9+ roof out left or to step up right on a rotten scary bolt, clip two loose pins, and pass the overhang on exposed but easy ramps. The main route ends on a physical corner up a headwall; then you are on the knife-edge ridge leading toward Meeker's summit. To descend, traverse to the massif & drop right into a gully, which may entail downclimbing and in a wet year, substantial snow or ice.

Submitted by: timmet on 2002-07-25
Views: 968
Route ID: 20908

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2011-07-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent

Each pitch is stellar. Highly recommend the direct route which has lots of little pro so bring lots of RP's. We did a little scrambling at the bottom that was maybe 5.4 to get to the ledge starting the first pitch. Was nicer than hiking the snow.

Added: 2011-07-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Massimo on 2007-07-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great

Just go for it, don't worry about the options.

Added: 2007-08-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 2000-08-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I thought this was hard for 5.9!

5.10 for the direct version sounds more reasonable. It was very nice climbing, though.

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: takeme on 2001-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Great route, and quite different from the standard RMNP fare of walls and spires. It should be noted that there is a 5.8 variation which avoids the 5.10c first pitch of the description, and is probably more popular (as you can then do the whole route at 5.9). However, we did the 5.10 (Pat did a great job of leading this), and I would highly recommend it, especially if you like Lumpy Ridge. We did the whole climb in 4 pitches and every one was great. A very fast grade III compared to others I've done in the Park; we were back in town for a late breakfast!

Witnessed by: Pat
Added: 2001-07-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: flamer on 2001-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Beautiful and good route awesome views...

Witnessed by: thad
Added: 2001-07-01