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South Ridge - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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standard rack; perhaps an extra 3.5 friend for the direct variation
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


The South Ridge has enough variations to comprise two almost completely seperate routes, but is excellent any way you do it. It can range from 5.8 to hard 10 in difficulty, but the most common way checks in at 5.9. The variations which stay almost entirely right of the arete are known as the Direct South Ridge. Begin with a couple of easy 5.4 pitches, heading for the right side of the obvious steep ridge. A steep and runout 5.6 pitch diagonals up and left to a belay very near the arete. From here, climb steep cracks and corners just right of the arete for 2 awesome pitches (5.9 & 5.8), or traverse around the arete for 2 pitches of steep and pretty good 5.7. From a ledge atop both variations, there are several options for finishing. The most common heads up the left side of the arete and wanders around interminably at about 5.6, followed by a belay in the obvious notch right on the ridge. Supposedly there's a 5.10+ seam in this area as well. Above these, beautiful steep crack and face (5.9) right of the arete lead to a belay, or you can stretch it all the way up the remaining 5.7 to the top. Another option heads up to a stance on the arete for short pitch, then traverses across a slab to a crack and corner system, which one can follow for 2 5.8 pitches to the summit. This is the original line of the route.

Submitted by: takeme on 2004-11-18
Views: 853
Route ID: 45665

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flamer on 2008-07-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun route

2 pitchs with KC

Added: 2008-07-17

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-06-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars _

Route finding was a pain in the butt - we had the topo from Gillett's book but it wasn't until the final 2 pitches that we were definitely on route. It took us awhile to figure out the route starts way further up the gully than you might initially realize. The rest of the time we wandered up the ridge, never really certain if we were on route or not. The climbing was so-so with some fun jamming sections now and then. The descent involves sketchy downclimbing or requires 4 long rappels (two ropes required) - the rappels seem like the better way down.

Added: 2008-07-16

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1995-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice mellow alpine route

This climb has some great exposure and goes to a great summit with all moderate climbing. The crux pitch up high will get you breathing hard, though!

Added: 2007-04-11