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North Ridge - 5.6

Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Rock
Light standard rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Begin near the corner of the east and north faces and climb to base of a chimney. Climb the chimney. Follow cracks and corners near the ridge crest for 3 pitches. Pitch 5 climbs a left leaning slot that tops out on the crest. From here look down the east face and enjoy the exposure. Follow a crack in the ridge to the top.

Submitted by: agrauch on 2002-01-20
Views: 1488
Route ID: 10952

9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2014-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent experience

Beautiful, 6 mile approach. Solid 5.6 climbing, could be a tad harder if you go left on the East face above the Barb flake. Great exposure there with plenty of gear. Hardest moves seemed to be the slot on the last pitch, polished there but has good gear placements. Walk-off is no give away program. Nothing larger than a #2 Camelot needed the way we went (Rossiter version). I think we did it in 5 pitches or so with a 70 meter rope.

Added: 2014-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: byran on 2008-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars North Ridge

Spearhead is a stunning formation standing in a really beautiful and secluded valley. The North Ridge however is only an 'ok' route. The first few pitches ascend some ugly and sort of dirty gullies. The climbing gets cleaner and more exposed in the second half but none of the climbing is that remarkable. Though the fact that my hands were absolutely freezing probably didn't help to put me in a good mood. I also might have been off route near the end. I just aimed for the party ahead of me, but when I caught up to them they told me they thought we were all off route, so maybe I missed out on some better pitches.

In any case, this route isn't so much about the climbing as just getting to the top of Spearhead. The summit block is a diving board with a dramatic drop-off and the hike in is very enjoyable and mild (a relief after climbing in the Tetons where every approach is straight up talus and gullies). I'd love to come back here with a partner and do some of the routes on the NE face. Spearhead is really one of the coolest formations I've been on. If 5.6 is all you're capable of doing in a day considering the long approach then the North Ridge is absolutely a must do.

Added: 2008-11-07

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars _

What a beautiful peak! The crux of the day was finding the start of the route (OBVIOUS chimney? I guess!). The summit is amazing to stand on. Don't descend the 1st obvious gully to the west of the route - instead head further west (skier's left) before dropping down or you'll end up above some cliffs and be forced to traverse over to the easier descent.

Added: 2008-08-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Massimo on 2007-07-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great

Awesome route. 4 hours car to car.

Added: 2007-08-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dudescientist on 2006-08-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great beginner Alpine route

Beautiful long approach. Better hope you know the shortcut. First few pitches can be simulclimbed. Cruz pitch at top. Great belay at top of 5.6 corner, nice view down the face and to the sickle!

Added: 2007-05-03

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