| Safety Rating
Spearhead is a stunning formation standing in a really beautiful and secluded valley. The North Ridge however is only an 'ok' route. The first few pitches ascend some ugly and sort of dirty gullies. The climbing gets cleaner and more exposed in the second half but none of the climbing is that remarkable. Though the fact that my hands were absolutely freezing probably didn't help to put me in a good mood. I also might have been off route near the end. I just aimed for the party ahead of me, but when I caught up to them they told me they thought we were all off route, so maybe I missed out on some better pitches.
In any case, this route isn't so much about the climbing as just getting to the top of Spearhead. The summit block is a diving board with a dramatic drop-off and the hike in is very enjoyable and mild (a relief after climbing in the Tetons where every approach is straight up talus and gullies). I'd love to come back here with a partner and do some of the routes on the NE face. Spearhead is really one of the coolest formations I've been on. If 5.6 is all you're capable of doing in a day considering the long approach then the North Ridge is absolutely a must do.